EM in dog kennels

Standaard


Hi

We are located in North-western Canada. We breed Labrador Retrievers and have a number of dog runs attatched to and near our home, because we want them to be well socialized and to be able to train them easily. But also you can imagine that we have a need to keep things sanitary and odour free.

We have been wanting to use EM as a means to keep our kennel areas (indoor tile, outdoor concrete, and outdoor wood chip/grass areas) clean and odour free without having to resort to the industry standard of chlorine bleach, bleach, and more bleach. I know that it kills the “germs” but also everything else and I have been feeling quite bad about killing all of the good guys with the “bad guys”. The concept of simply adding a lot of the good guys (EM) to effectively put down the bad guys is very appealing since we want our dog’s health to reflect the benifits of the EM microbes as well.

I have been reading a lot on EM but have been hesitant to take the plunge because If we do something wrong and the odours get away on us, we literally have to live in it.

Has anyone done this in a kennel setting or does anyone have experience and or testimonials in any ag setting that would relate to this application?

Chris Oudshoorn
Saskatchewan Canada

Hi Chris:

Comments below….

At 10:11 PM 2/6/05 -0600, you wrote:
>We are located in North-western Canada. We breed Labrador Retrievers
>and
>have a number of dog runs attatched to and near our home, because we want
>them to be well socialized and to be able to train them easily. But also
>you can imagine that we have a need to keep things sanitary and odour free.
>
> We have been wanting to use EM as a means to keep our kennel areas
> (indoor tile, outdoor concrete, and outdoor wood chip/grass areas) clean
> and odour free without having to resort to the industry standard of
> chlorine bleach, bleach, and more bleach. I know that it kills the
> “germs” but also everything else and I have been feeling quite bad about
> killing all of the good guys with the “bad guys”.

Well, likely an even bigger problem here is the constant exposure of your
animals and staffers to rather strong vapors/gases from the bleach
solutions, with attendant strong oxidizing potential (read irritation,
distress) and to the hazards of the oxidizing bleach liquids as well. And
yes, the imbalance caused by destruction of almost all microbes is also an
issue.

> The concept of simply adding a lot of the good guys (EM) to
> effectively
> put down the bad guys is very appealing since we want our dog’s health to
> reflect the benifits of the EM microbes as well.
>
>I have been reading a lot on EM but have been hesitant to take the
>plunge
>because If we do something wrong and the odours get away on us, we
>literally have to live in it.

I am not sure where your fear comes from. At worst, if the measures fail,
you can always go back to using bleach.

To start, you would want to offer your animals EM (or AEM) — preferably a
high-phototrophic version of EM or AEM — in their water and food, and you
would also want to have plenty available for mixing/dilution with molasses
and water and then spraying (within 20 hours after mixing/dilutions) on
waste accumulations, on soils, wood chips, grass, etc. Dilution/mixing
ratios when diluting the high-phototrophe AEM with molasses and water should
likely be anywhere from 1:1:40 to 1:1:500; I would start with the stronger
dilutions (e.g., 1:1:40) first and then gradually taper to weaker dilutions
as the microbes manage to colonize the guts of the dogs and also the local
environmental surfaces.

You will need some handheld or backpack sprayers, about 2 to 4 gallons
each, and if your facility is large, you may even need a larger sprayer,
such as the 50 to 250 gallon tank/sprayers designed to be pulled around
behind an ATV or garden tractor.

>Has anyone done this in a kennel setting or does anyone have experience
>and or testimonials in any ag setting that would relate to this application?

I have used EM regularly in my chicken pens and houses, and have NOT
cleaned/removed any waste accumulations in the 25 months that I have been
using it; my pens and bird houses have zero odor. I regularly perform
consulting for large farms which use EM or AEM for control of odors in
large barns/houses full of turkeys, pigs, chickens or other livestock in
close quarters; we usually reach zero odor within a month; we reach 95%
reduction of odor within days of starting, if not sooner.

with care,
–Vinny

Hi all,

I have never responded before but the one on Dog Kennels, I just couldn’t resist. We too raise dogs. We have all little ones and have about 60. We have had a terrible problem in the past with Mastitis and the Vet’s could not figure out what the problem was. We keep our Kennel very clean, as we do not want to have to odor problem either. A couple of years ago, we took the plunge and used EM on the runs and in the dogs water. Let me pass this on, it worked wonderfully!!! We were so pleased with the results that we have most of our friends using it that have Kennels. We are also not having quite as much of a problem with Mastitis. We have never had an odor problem in our Kennel, but we didn’t want to start one either, so we tried the EM. Are we ever glad we did!! It has amazing results, not overnight, but they are there and very measurable. I think anyone that has a Kennel would be wise to use it. It seems to work everywhere we use it and we have used it extensively.

Karon

Good answer, Vinny!
I will add a little to this.
I used to raise Rottweilers and know that it was quite a routine to keep it nice. I used the bleach/pinesol method of cleaning. I have come to know EM well enough that it would work wonders in a situation like yours. I now have Great Pyrenees and use it in my program but I don’t have dog runs any more.
Lets start first with their environment. First imagine “No Dogs” As Vinny pointed out, you will need a couple of sprayers of a gallon or more. Lets do an average of 10 pens. (I always had pups to raise and train and others awaiting 2 years of age for OFA hip certification before breeding, so had about 6-10 dogs at a time.)
Spray everything down 2 days after a good bleaching with a solution of 1 oz or 8 drams of EM-Ag (extended) or Animal Biosa to 2 gallons of clean, un chlorinated water. This gives the bleached aria time to evaporate any bleach left behind but yet not enough time for the bad bugs to start again before the good comes back. You have a good start there and spray down, once a week or so with a solution of 1-100 until you ‘feel’ the microbes working or a month to 6 weeks.
Now, imagine “With Dogs” a week or so before that last good bleaching, you will want to get your dogs stared on the same solution so that when the poop hits the bleached aria, it is already a working microbe adding to rather than detracting from the kennel. First off the urine will not be as harsh on the grassy aria and won’t burn the turfturf. The manure will not be as much and actually help the grassy aria too.
I use this method for my dogs: Feed a good dog food that is highly digestible first. Next I ferment some of that feed (Like bokoshi) and add it to the regular ration in small portions. I use Diamond dog food and recommends about 4 cups of dry kibble per 100 pounds of dog. I ferment some of the feed, and add about a half a cup of it to the daily rations. The fermented food acts as a super digestive enzyme and will get even MORE out of the dog food, so less stool in the pen. That is a first and foremost in odor. If you’d like to add sea kelp and/or brewers yeast (I also use a good garlic powder) to your feed, it will really enhance your dog. Add EM in your dogs water and it will start cleaning the system real quick. When you clean your dog out then it is time to clean the pens in a final bleaching. Keep up the EM and people will really think you got rid of your dogs. Spray the turf aria if you have dogs urinating more frequently in a smaller aria. Then get your mower in
tune because your turf aria will grow REAL WELL. If you paint your kennels, I recommend you get the EM Ceramic powder for paint so that it will keep any bad bugs from forming in the materials it is covering. Cut down the ratio of 1:1000 until you feel comfortable with a maintenance level. I would still recommend a shoe cover or light bleach bath for persons shoes if they are coming to look at puppies and may have been at someone else place, it still KILLS bad bugs from other places.
As for the breeding/gestation of pups, they are much more hardy, the immune system is in good shape, mothers milk is supreme and it will cut back on parasites. I don’t recommend anyone giving up puppy shots but you can be sure that in a closed environment it is less likely that they will get or carry dog diseases.
This is a basic method that can be used in any animal cleanse and cleanup.
Hope this helps.

Lorrie Oldham
swor_org@earthlink.net
http://www.swor.org
http://www.Poultry-Clinic.org


We have been wanting to use EM as a means to keep our kennel areas (indoor tile, outdoor concrete, and outdoor wood chip/grass areas) clean and odour free without having to resort to the industry standard of chlorine bleach, bleach, and more bleach. I know that it kills the “germs” but also everything else and I have been feeling quite bad about killing all of the good guys with the “bad guys”. The concept of simply adding a lot of the good guys (EM) to effectively put down the bad guys is very appealing since we want our dog’s health to reflect the benifits of the EM microbes as well.

I have been reading a lot on EM but have been hesitant to take the plunge because If we do something wrong and the odours get away on us, we literally have to live in it.

Has anyone done this in a kennel setting or does anyone have experience and or testimonials in any ag setting that would relate to this application?

Chris Oudshoorn
Saskatchewan Canada

Hi Chris:

Comments below….

At 10:11 PM 2/6/05 -0600, you wrote:
>We are located in North-western Canada. We breed Labrador Retrievers
>and
>have a number of dog runs attatched to and near our home, because we want
>them to be well socialized and to be able to train them easily. But also
>you can imagine that we have a need to keep things sanitary and odour free.
>
> We have been wanting to use EM as a means to keep our kennel areas
> (indoor tile, outdoor concrete, and outdoor wood chip/grass areas) clean
> and odour free without having to resort to the industry standard of
> chlorine bleach, bleach, and more bleach. I know that it kills the
> “germs” but also everything else and I have been feeling quite bad about
> killing all of the good guys with the “bad guys”.

Well, likely an even bigger problem here is the constant exposure of your
animals and staffers to rather strong vapors/gases from the bleach
solutions, with attendant strong oxidizing potential (read irritation,
distress) and to the hazards of the oxidizing bleach liquids as well. And
yes, the imbalance caused by destruction of almost all microbes is also an
issue.

> The concept of simply adding a lot of the good guys (EM) to
> effectively
> put down the bad guys is very appealing since we want our dog’s health to
> reflect the benifits of the EM microbes as well.
>
>I have been reading a lot on EM but have been hesitant to take the
>plunge
>because If we do something wrong and the odours get away on us, we
>literally have to live in it.

I am not sure where your fear comes from. At worst, if the measures fail,
you can always go back to using bleach.

To start, you would want to offer your animals EM (or AEM) — preferably a
high-phototrophic version of EM or AEM — in their water and food, and you
would also want to have plenty available for mixing/dilution with molasses
and water and then spraying (within 20 hours after mixing/dilutions) on
waste accumulations, on soils, wood chips, grass, etc. Dilution/mixing
ratios when diluting the high-phototrophe AEM with molasses and water should
likely be anywhere from 1:1:40 to 1:1:500; I would start with the stronger
dilutions (e.g., 1:1:40) first and then gradually taper to weaker dilutions
as the microbes manage to colonize the guts of the dogs and also the local
environmental surfaces.

You will need some handheld or backpack sprayers, about 2 to 4 gallons
each, and if your facility is large, you may even need a larger sprayer,
such as the 50 to 250 gallon tank/sprayers designed to be pulled around
behind an ATV or garden tractor.

>Has anyone done this in a kennel setting or does anyone have experience
>and or testimonials in any ag setting that would relate to this application?

I have used EM regularly in my chicken pens and houses, and have NOT
cleaned/removed any waste accumulations in the 25 months that I have been
using it; my pens and bird houses have zero odor. I regularly perform
consulting for large farms which use EM or AEM for control of odors in
large barns/houses full of turkeys, pigs, chickens or other livestock in
close quarters; we usually reach zero odor within a month; we reach 95%
reduction of odor within days of starting, if not sooner.

with care,
–Vinny

Hi all,

I have never responded before but the one on Dog Kennels, I just couldn’t resist. We too raise dogs. We have all little ones and have about 60. We have had a terrible problem in the past with Mastitis and the Vet’s could not figure out what the problem was. We keep our Kennel very clean, as we do not want to have to odor problem either. A couple of years ago, we took the plunge and used EM on the runs and in the dogs water. Let me pass this on, it worked wonderfully!!! We were so pleased with the results that we have most of our friends using it that have Kennels. We are also not having quite as much of a problem with Mastitis. We have never had an odor problem in our Kennel, but we didn’t want to start one either, so we tried the EM. Are we ever glad we did!! It has amazing results, not overnight, but they are there and very measurable. I think anyone that has a Kennel would be wise to use it. It seems to work everywhere we use it and we have used it extensively.

Karon

Good answer, Vinny!
I will add a little to this.
I used to raise Rottweilers and know that it was quite a routine to keep it nice. I used the bleach/pinesol method of cleaning. I have come to know EM well enough that it would work wonders in a situation like yours. I now have Great Pyrenees and use it in my program but I don’t have dog runs any more.
Lets start first with their environment. First imagine “No Dogs” As Vinny pointed out, you will need a couple of sprayers of a gallon or more. Lets do an average of 10 pens. (I always had pups to raise and train and others awaiting 2 years of age for OFA hip certification before breeding, so had about 6-10 dogs at a time.)
Spray everything down 2 days after a good bleaching with a solution of 1 oz or 8 drams of EM-Ag (extended) or Animal Biosa to 2 gallons of clean, un chlorinated water. This gives the bleached aria time to evaporate any bleach left behind but yet not enough time for the bad bugs to start again before the good comes back. You have a good start there and spray down, once a week or so with a solution of 1-100 until you ‘feel’ the microbes working or a month to 6 weeks.
Now, imagine “With Dogs” a week or so before that last good bleaching, you will want to get your dogs stared on the same solution so that when the poop hits the bleached aria, it is already a working microbe adding to rather than detracting from the kennel. First off the urine will not be as harsh on the grassy aria and won’t burn the turfturf. The manure will not be as much and actually help the grassy aria too.
I use this method for my dogs: Feed a good dog food that is highly digestible first. Next I ferment some of that feed (Like bokoshi) and add it to the regular ration in small portions. I use Diamond dog food and recommends about 4 cups of dry kibble per 100 pounds of dog. I ferment some of the feed, and add about a half a cup of it to the daily rations. The fermented food acts as a super digestive enzyme and will get even MORE out of the dog food, so less stool in the pen. That is a first and foremost in odor. If you’d like to add sea kelp and/or brewers yeast (I also use a good garlic powder) to your feed, it will really enhance your dog. Add EM in your dogs water and it will start cleaning the system real quick. When you clean your dog out then it is time to clean the pens in a final bleaching. Keep up the EM and people will really think you got rid of your dogs. Spray the turf aria if you have dogs urinating more frequently in a smaller aria. Then get your mower in
tune because your turf aria will grow REAL WELL. If you paint your kennels, I recommend you get the EM Ceramic powder for paint so that it will keep any bad bugs from forming in the materials it is covering. Cut down the ratio of 1:1000 until you feel comfortable with a maintenance level. I would still recommend a shoe cover or light bleach bath for persons shoes if they are coming to look at puppies and may have been at someone else place, it still KILLS bad bugs from other places.
As for the breeding/gestation of pups, they are much more hardy, the immune system is in good shape, mothers milk is supreme and it will cut back on parasites. I don’t recommend anyone giving up puppy shots but you can be sure that in a closed environment it is less likely that they will get or carry dog diseases.
This is a basic method that can be used in any animal cleanse and cleanup.
Hope this helps.

Lorrie Oldham
swor_org@earthlink.net
http://www.swor.org
http://www.Poultry-Clinic.org